Butterflies of Kerala

Duration: 10 days
Best season: October to March


Despite lying squarely in the tropics much of the Western Ghats exhibit extra-tropical climate due to the influence of altitude.  The unique admixture of temperate and tropical qualities so created, coupled with the high fertility generated by the intensity of India's southwest monsoon which is intercepted by the higher ranges, is responsible for the creation of a variety of microclimates.  These in turn bestow this region with incredible species diversity and a remarkable degree of endemism for which the Western Ghats are recognized as one of the richest reservoirs of biodiversity in the world.

Among these endemics are no less than 37 butterflies, contributing to a total 330 species - a considerable variety that is a direct reflection of the diversity of flowering plants, one of every four of which provides food for the caterpillar of at least one butterfly, in many cases exclusively.

The distribution of butterflies along the Western Ghats is interrupted by the Palghat Gap, a 30km wide low-lying area that creates a major break in the ghats and acts as a biogeographic barrier isolating many endemic butterflies to the north and south.  The highest diversity of butterflies along the Western Ghats, where all 330 species can be found, occurs in the state of Kerala between the Palghat Gap and Agasthyamalai to the south; this region being the focus of this tour.


Days 1-3: Kochi (Cochin) - Thattekad
Arrive in Kochi.  Drive inland to Thattekad Bird Sanctuary at the foot of Kerala's Cardamom Hills (2hrs) to spend the remainder of the day, along with a further two full days, in this small patch of lush lowland forest.  Officially named Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary in honour of the eminent Indian Ornithologist Thattekad is situated on the banks of the Periyar River, preserving the last remnant of a habitat that was once extant across much of the region, now largely converted to agricultural land and extensive plantations.  The gently undulating terrain is densely covered with tropical deciduous and evergreen forest dissected by waterways, riverine vegetation, and patches of scrub and grassland, its fauna rich and varied as a result.  With altitudes from 35-523m a.s.l. Thattekad straddles the Malabar Coast Moist Forest and South Western Ghats Moist Deciduous Forest eco-regions.  The tropical forests are spectacularly rich in butterflies, particularly Papilionidae, and species expected here include Blue Mormon, Paris Peacock, the endemic Malabar Rose, Malabar Raven, and Tamil Catseye, Clipper, South Indian Blue Oakleaf, Gladeye and White-bar Bushbrowns, Slate Flash, Yamfly, Common Tinsel, and Monkey Puzzle.  Alongside the butterflies are an equally impressive array of birds, including endemics such as White-bellied Treepie, White-bellied Blue Flycatcher, Grey-headed Bulbul, and Malabar Parakeet, while the sanctuary and surrounding areas are exceptional for night birds, including Ceylon Frogmouth, Grey and Great-eared Nightjars, Brown Fosh-owl, and Oriental Scops-owl, with the chance of rarer Mottled Wood-owl, Ceylon Bay-owl, and Forest Eagle-owl.  Overnight in a wildlife camp on the edge of the reserve.


Days 4-6: Munnar, Eravikulam, and Chinnar
Journey up through the dramatic scenery of the foothills of the ghats into the Kannan Devan Hills to spend the remainder of day 4, plus a further two full days, at Munnar (4hrs) and nearby Eravikulam National Park.  Munnar is a uniquely picturesque colonial hill station enveloped by vast expanses of tea estates.  Although these have all but decimated the natural vegetation of the area the vista they have created is spectacular, while the resultant combination of open grassland, vegetated gullies, and patches of woodland shading cardamom crops has allowed a variety of species to flourish here.  Butterflies such as Common Jezebel, Common Bluebottle, Tailed Jay, Red Helen, and the endemic Nilgiri Tiger can be found throughout the town.  Nearby Eravikulam National Park is centred on Anamudi, the ghats' highest peak, and preserves the largest and least-disturbed patch of the montane Shola (stunted forest) grassland ecosystem unique to the southern portion of the Western Ghats.  This represents the South Western Ghats Montane Rainforest eco-region, the most species-rich eco-region in peninsular India.  Once prevalent throughout the ghats it is estimated that two thirds of the original forest has been cleared in the bid to raise tea plantations, making Eravikulam a vital stronghold of endemic species.  A significant percentage of the flora and fauna of these highlands is endemic to the ghats, including several of the 101 butterflies found at these altitudes - including the Red-disc and Palni Bushbrowns, Palni and Nilgiri Four-rings, and Nilgiri Clouded Yellow, some of which are confined solely to the Shola-grassland ecosystem.  Endemic birds include White-bellied and Nilgiri Blue-robins, Black and Orange and Nilgiri Flycatchers, Kerala, Black-chinned, and Wynaad Laughingthrushes, Nilgiri Pipit, the nomadic Nilgiri Woodpigeon, and the elusive Indian Broad-tailed Grass-warbler, alongside the endemic Nilgiri Tahr and Dusky Striped Squirrel.  On day 6 visit Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary (1hr) to explore the riparian forests of this dry deciduous forest in the rain shadow of the ghats.  The selection of butterflies found here will contrast with those found at Eravikulam, and particularly Thattekad, and may include species such as Yellow, Lemon, and Blue Pansies, Southern Duffer, Travancore Evening Brown, Tamil Lacewing, Five-bar Swordtail, and Malabar Swallowtail alongside the rare endemic Grizzled Giant Squirrel.  Nights in a mountainside resort or tea estate bungalow.


Days 7-9:  Periyar
Depart Munnar driving southwards to spend the remainder of day 7 and a further two full days at Periyar National Park and Tiger Reserve (4hrs), one of the oldest protected areas in India extending protection to almost 800 sq km surrounding the Periyar Lake.  The close proximity of low-lying plains to areas of higher elevation within the sanctuary presents a remarkable variety of habitats, and although evergreen or semi-evergreen rainforest makes up 75% of the entire protected area this is interspersed with grassland, riverside scrub, and patches of dry deciduous forest - a variety reflected in the rich diversity of butterflies.  Species here include the delicate Malabar Tree Nymph, Malabar Banded and Paris Peacocks, Southern Birdwing, Cruiser, Glassy Tiger, Lime, Danaid Eggfly, Peacock Pansy, Plum Judy, and Red Pierrot.  Periyar is also perfectly placed to find almost all ornithological specialilties of the Western Ghats, completed by other resident species and seasonal migrants, and boasts an impressive birdlist of over 315 species, including half of peninsular India's endemics and near-endemics.  Many species, including Malabar White-headed Starling, Flame-throated Bulbul, Greater Racket-tailed Drongo, Scarlet and Small Minivets, Heart-spotted Woodpecker, and Asian Fairy Bluebird associate in mixed foraging flocks, while other key species here include White-bellied Woodpecker, Great Pied Hornbill, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Black Eagle and Osprey.  Periyar is home to 50+ mammal species, including Smooth-coated Otter, Gaur (Indian Bison), Dhole (Asiatic Wild Dog), Asian Elephant, the endemic Nilgiri Langur and Malabar Giant Squirrel, with a rare chance of Tiger.  Overnight in a guesthouse in nearby Thekkady.


Day 10: Periyar - Kochi, depart
Depart Periyar for the return drive to Kochi (5hrs).  Depart Kochi on your onward journey.